Total Miles: 1,566.3
Björnholmssätern – September 12, 2016
I walked past dark last night, climbing up in the moonlight until I made camp high above the trees. The moon and stars put me to sleep. The sun and a brilliant blue sky woke me up.
I stumble out of my tent into an open expanse of a mountain, high above the trees, but flat and wide, like it was crushed down by ancient sheets of ice. It reminds of the north, like a piece of Finnmark has been torn away and brought south.
The mountain top is wide enough that I forget I’m on a mountain at all. I forget that below the edge of land, there are thick forests that could never exist near Nordkapp and Kinnarodden where you could walk days without seeing a single tree.
I wander forward under the blue dome of sky. Wind sweeps across the rocks. Sunlight warms my face. My eyes soak in the barren beauty.
It is easy walking, full of simple joy, of sunlight and warmth. I keep staring at the horizon for clouds. I keep wondering when the trail will disappear underneath me. I keep guessing that my luck will end.
But it never does. I even find an old cabin to sleep in, wood floors and a roof so I can close my eyes without dreaming of wind, rain, and a wet tent. I sit in the shadows of moonlight, wrapped in my sleeping bag, thinking about how far I’ve come from those first steps at Kinnarodden. Then I drift off, dreaming of blue skies and open horizons stretching south.